What’s Natural Wine, Anyway? We Asked a Sommelier

Natural wine or “natty wine,” as the kids are calling it these days, may be trending, but it’s not a flash in the pan. The term natural wine refers to a collection of winemaking practices and techniques. In search of what really defines this genre, we spoke with Holly Berrigan, a sommelier and the founder of MYSA Natural Wine, about how to define (and shop for) natural wine. While consumers may struggle to understand what makes a bottle natural or not—the wine industry is not known for clarity in labeling and branding—there are a handful of key indicators to look for when buying and drinking great natural wine. And surprise: None of them include the word “funky.”

What Is Natural Wine?

There are plenty of industry terms used to describe natural wine. If you’ve recently purchased eggs in a grocery store, you’ll understand this concept: Some cartons are labeled organic, some free-range, and others, simply, “all natural.” The natural wine industry operates similarly. Here’s a breakdown of three common terms:

Organic Wine

This is a definitive label. A winemaker must be certified as organic to use the terminology to market their wine. But organically grown wine grapes are only a part of the winemaking equation: “Organic” refers to what happens in the vineyard and nothing more. Spraying for pests is regulated and restricted, although some preventative treatments are still allowed under the organic label. “Around 10% of vineyards,” Berrigan says, “are certified organic.”

Biodynamic Wine

Another vineyard-specific label, biodynamic agriculture involves a complex set of agricultural practices, timetables, and rituals based around a concept of universal connectedness. Sounds a little woo-woo? That’s fair. But biodynamic grape-growing is more than just farming by vibes. Biodynamic farmers typically meet and exceed organic standards, operating with the understanding that every choice made has a ripple effect on the health of soil, crops, and, finally, personal health. 

Natural Wine

Just because a wine is organic or biodynamic doesn’t mean it’s natural. “For natural wine, or low-intervention wine, we’re talking about what happens inside the winery itself,” Berrigan says. She notes spontaneous fermentation and natural yeast as two hugely important elements required for natural wine. “In conventional winemaking, the fermentation process is forced using a selective yeast. In natural wine, native yeast is used—that’s the yeast that’s ambient in the air around us.” 

Why would a winemaker choose natural yeast over a more stable, predictable product? “It’s more interesting,” Berrigan explains. She gives grapes grown in Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts, as a prime example: The resulting wines tend to have a minty, menthol-forward character, which is reflective of the eucalyptus trees surrounding many vineyards. There’s also greater variation from year to year in natural winemaking, which some consumers prefer. Of course, the parallel is true. Says Berrigan, “A conventional wine will taste the same every single time you drink it because they’re making it taste like that.” Wine drinkers who prefer predictability tend to gravitate toward conventional wines. Now that we’ve defined some of the key terminology, it’s time to talk about one of the most misunderstood—and controversial—ingredients in winemaking.

Are Sulfites In Wine Bad?

Mention the word “sulfites” within a 50-mile radius of a natural winemaker or industry professional, and you’ll hear their groans…but probably not for the reason you expect. Many drinkers choose natural wines because of the myth that they don’t contain headache- and hangover-inducing sulfites. “Is it the sulfites in your wine making you feel weird, or is the food dye?” asks a bemused Berrigan. More on the dye situation in the next section, but for now, let’s talk about what sulfites do—and why they’re usually necessary in wine. 

First: All wine contains sulfites. Some occur naturally. It’s legally permissible to to market a wine as having no added sulfites, but added sulfites aren’t always a bad thing! There are two places in the winemaking process where sulfur can be introduced. First, grapes may be sprayed with sulfur—a permissible practice, even within the organic industry. Second, and perhaps more controversially, sulfur can be added during the winemaking process. “A little bit of sulfur is really useful to ensure that the wine doesn’t turn and go bad during fermentation,” says Berrigan. In the United States, 350 parts per million of sulfur are allowed, but that concentration is usually only seen in conventional wines. Most of the natural wines MYSA offers clock in at a modest 50-and-under ppm. The tradeoff for a touch of stabilizing sulfites, Berrigan says, is worth it. “I would rather have 35 parts per million sulfur in my wine than have a bottle that’s mousy [tasting] and sad.”

Are There Additives In Natural Wine?

Perhaps the more telling question is: Are there additives in conventional wine? The answer—despite not existing on most conventional wine labels—is a resounding yes. Conventional winemakers have a variety of additives in their toolboxes. 

Fining and Filtering Additives In Wine

After wine has fermented, it will look cloudy and may have sediment in the bottle. Conventional winemakers filter out the larger particles and then use additives to “fine” the wine, making it crystal-clear. Some of those fining agents, Berrigan notes, can be surprising to consumers: She cites fish bladders, egg whites, and milk as commonly used tricks of the trade. “This is a good time to note that not all wine is vegan,” she says. The culprit is usually fining agents. By contrast, natural wine is often unfiltered, which results in bottles with sediment and cloudiness (these qualities are not considered flaws in wine, although consumers used to filtered wine may find them off-putting.)

Sugar In Wine

To understand why conventional winemakers would put sugar in wine—and many do—think of a perfectly balanced wine as an X shape. One line represents acidity; the other, sugar. The ideal intersection of the two is the exact middle of the X. But a lot can go wrong during the winemaking process, and the wine you end up with will almost always be off the bullseye. If the wine is too acidic, conventional winemakers may opt to add sugar. If the wine has too much residual sugar (and consequently, a higher ABV), acidifying agents like citric acid can be introduced to the mix. It’s generally accepted that natural winemakers don’t use any sugars or acidifiers, even in the case of an imperfectly balanced wine.

Dyes In Wine

Food dye is a permissible additive in conventional wine, although producers are loathe to admit it. It’s used to boost the saturation of wine before bottling, especially if the grapes were unhealthy and the resulting color weak. The most common coloring agent is called Mega Purple which is, funnily enough, highly concentrated grape juice. “If you’re getting weird colors on your mouth when you drink, sometimes it’s from the grapes. But a lot of the time, it’s from food dye,” says Berrigan. Natural winemakers do not use dyes.

What Does Natural Wine Taste Like?

We’ve talked a lot about what natural wine isn’t. But what is it? And what does it taste like? Berrigan and many industry pros steer away from the word “funky,” even if it’s a useful catchall term for describing a wildly varied genre. (Berrigan does rate the wines sold at MYSA on a funkiness scale, because it’s an efficient way to identify how a-typical a given wine is. She notes that an adventure scale would be equally informative.) The thing is, any wine can be funky if it is improperly made. 

The alarming, what IS that? retronasal experience Berrigan describes as “mousey” is a flaw—and not a desired quality in natural wine. “I worry that when people say they like natural wine, they have actually learned to like that flavor and are looking for it,” she says. That’s a compelling argument against using “funky” or “weird” to describe natural wine! Instead, knowing the common qualities of natural wine will give you a better vocabulary to describe what you like and don’t like drinking. Here are some ways to describe natural wine.

Volatile Acidity

Volatile acidity brings a vinegary note to wine. A little can make a wine zippy, bright, and interesting—think aged balsamic vinegar. But if a natural wine has ever reminded you of nail polish remover, you’ve had the unfortunate experience of uncorking a bottle with too much VA.

Oxidation

Controlled exposure to oxygen will introduce complex, nuanced qualities to a wine. Too much will pummel its flavors, aroma, and hue. How can you tell if a wine is too oxidized? Berrigan offers a simple question: “Does it have a lovely sherried note or does it taste like nasty socks?”

Reduction

On the flip side, a reductive wine has been deprived of oxygen. Keeping oxygen under control gives the wine aging power and keeps oxidation in check. But too little oxygen will introduce a sulfurous, skunky, or smoky flavor that can be off-putting to some. Berrigan notes that she steers clear of reductive wines—but if you’re into a little smoke, it’s a word you’ll want to bring to your next wine-shopping mission.

Liveliness

Natural wine is alive—like kombucha and sauerkraut. For that reason, many have a lightly effervescent, fizzy quality, even if they’re not marketed as sparkling. Some unexpected bubbles are fun, but a traditionally still wine that knocks you over with fizz misses the mark. 

Brettanomyces

Brettanomyces, or brett, is a yeast that brings a horsey flavor to the party. It’s commonly found in beer, but isn’t shy about hanging around natural wines, too. Too much Brett smells like a barnyard, but a little can be interesting. “It adds a layer of complexity to wine beyond the primary aromas (primary is from the fruit, secondary is from the winemaking, tertiary is from aging),” says Berrigan.

Where to Buy Natural Wine Online

Wine shops that feature natural, low-intervention bottles are increasingly common. Some deal exclusively in natural wines. If you live near one, the best way to try natural wines and get to know your palate is to talk to the salespeople or merchant. However, because we live in the age of the internet, joining a natural wine club (or any sort of food subscription club) is as easy as clicking a few buttons. 

Here are a few wine clubs we like, thanks to highly curated collections, approachable educational materials, and the ability to customize your subscription.

MYSA is Berrigan’s wine club. It’s a moderately priced option that offers a great variety and comes with plenty of intel on each bottle. “I love how each shipment of Mysa comes with opportunities to learn,” senior commerce editor Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm says. “There’s a card with a QR code you scan and that takes you to their website where you can learn about each bottle, discover pairing ideas, and watch video tastings alongside Holly. The wines are all so thoughtfully curated and I’ve loved each and every bottle I’ve tried.”

Key Specs

• Type of wine included: Red, white, rosé, orange, and sparkling
• Number of bottles included: 3, 6, or 12
• Frequency of delivery: Monthly, every 2 months, or every 3 months

A subscription to Raw Wine’s club comes with tons of educational materials; we actually named it the best information-rich natural wine club. You can opt for temperature-controlled shipping (great in the summer months), and the membership comes with access to Raw Wine’s regular in-person events. Berrigan cites this as a superb option for serious natural wine drinkers, especially those who look for unique, thought-provoking wines.

Key Specs

• Type of wine included: Red, white, rosé, orange, sweet, and sparkling
• Number of bottles included: 3, 6, or 12
• Frequency of delivery: Monthly

A “dry” farm does not irrigate. This presents plenty of challenges to grape growing, especially in places prone to drought. But it’s better for the environment and can be a great way for grape growers and winemakers to show their skills. Dry Farm Wines shipments come with educational materials about the wines, and the shipments are packaged beautifully. They also offer a low alcohol collection ideal for drinkers who want to keep ABV in check.

Key Specs

• Type of wine included: Choose between a mix of red/white, red, white, rosé, and sparkling
• Number of bottles included: 6 or 12
• Frequency of delivery: Monthly or every 2 months

Plonk offers totally wines made from organically- or biodynamically- grown grapes and often features lesser-known varietals. Although this isn’t technically a natural wine club, the offerings favor low-intervention winemaking techniques. Each shipment comes with a concise informational pamphlet that’s easy to digest, and never overwhelming.

Key Specs

• Type of wine included: Red, white, rosé, and bubbly
• Number of bottles included: 4, 6, or 12
• Frequency of delivery: Monthly, every 2 months, or every 3 months

FAQs

Is natural wine better for you?

Owing to the absence of additives and typically lower ABV, some drinkers feel natural wine is a healthier option. But like all alcoholic beverages, natural wine should be drunk in moderation—it’s not a health food.

What are sulfites in wine?

Sulfites are preservatives and are naturally-occurring and added. The presence of sulfites in wine gives it more stability and protects it against flaws that occur in the fermentation process. Conventional wine in the U.S. allows 350 parts per million sulfites in wine; although there’s no legal limit in natural wine, most producers try to keep it under 50 ppm.

Can you age natural wine?

It’s a common misconception that all-natural wine needs to be consumed ASAP. Some varietals, like Beaujolais Noveau, are meant to be enjoyed young (and typically sell out as soon as they’re available each year). But because natural wine encompasses as many types of wine as there are grapes, plenty of low-intervention bottles can be tucked away for safekeeping.

What is orange wine?

Not all orange wine is natural, but many natural wines are orange! Orange wine is made by fermenting white grapes with their skins; that’s why it’s also called “skin contact” wine. This not only gives the wine its signature color but also imparts a moderate amount of tannins, which help protect the wine against impurities. Berrigan notes that skin contact is almost always by natural winemakers who make white wines. “If you can make a white wine without any additives or skin contact, you are the most badass winemaker in the world,” she says.

Why We’re the Experts

• Rochelle Bilow is a commerce editor at Serious Eats.
• She is a graduate of the French Culinary Institute, and has worked as a food writer for over a decade.
• She has also spent time working in marketing for the Finger Lakes Wine region.
• For this story, she interviewed a sommelier with an expertise in natural wines.