Orecchiette With Broccoli and Toasted Hazelnuts
A great pasta dish is all about the successful pairing of textures and flavors. When I’m developing a pasta recipe, I try to focus on one or two main ingredients, with several other components to pull it all together. Such is the story of this easy dinner: It’s based on the classic duo of broccoli and orecchiette, but here, they’re bound together by a creamy sauce that’s tinted with turmeric and finished with the buttery crunch of hazelnuts.
The traditional broccoli-based sauce for orecchiette is simple in preparation and flavor. It is made by first boiling the broccoli, then cooking it further in olive oil with basic aromatics like garlic, until it’s melt-in-your-mouth tender. While this is delicious in its own right, with this recipe I wanted something more complex tasting. Instead of boiling the broccoli, I chose to sear half of it in a Dutch oven, allowing the Maillard reaction—a series of chemical reactions that happen when sugars and proteins are exposed to high heat—to bring out the vegetable’s natural bittersweet flavors. Like most members of the Brassica family, broccoli takes to high heat rather well. A quick sear to crisp and brown the exterior is a simple and foolproof way to develop deeper, sweeter flavor. The broccoli takes on prominent notes of smokiness and bittersweet flavors, making it a natural pairing with just about everything: creamy dairy, spices (like earthy turmeric), and crunchy hazelnuts.
The remaining broccoli goes in after, becoming sweet and tender as it cooks down with the garlic, red pepper flakes, heavy cream, and turmeric, which lends the sauce a pleasant earthiness and vivid hue.
This broccoli pasta is an easy recipe that comes together quickly, and it’s a good candidate for riffing on, too. There’s really no right or wrong way to go about it. I often use it as a vehicle for any leftover ingredients from the pantry or fridge, tossing in a handful of peas, roasted vegetables, or fresh herbs. Use this recipe as a springboard for creativity, and you’ll never have a boring pasta dinner ever again.
In a medium Dutch oven or large sauté pan, heat oil over high heat until just smoking. Add half the broccoli, season lightly with salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned on at least one side, about 5 minutes. Lower heat to medium-low, stir in remaining broccoli, and season lightly with salt. Stir in garlic and red pepper flakes and cook until garlic is fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Add heavy cream along with 1 cup (240ml) water and the turmeric, bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cover and cook until broccoli is very tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add orecchiette and cook until just shy of al dente (1 to 2 minutes fewer than package directions). Drain pasta, reserving 1/2 cup (120ml) pasta water.
Add orecchiette to pasta sauce and cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until pasta is al dente and sauce is thickened and coats noodles, but is still liquid enough to pool in the bottom of the pot, about 2 minutes. Add more water, in 1/4 cup (60ml) increments as needed, to achieve desired consistency (keep in mind, it will thicken even more once cheese is stirred in).
Remove from heat, add Parmigiano-Reggiano, and stir vigorously to incorporate. Season with salt to taste. Divide between warmed serving bowls, topping each portion with toasted hazelnuts and additional grated cheese. Serve immediately.
Special Equipment
Dutch oven
Notes
Blanched hazelnuts have had their skins removed. Hazelnut skins can lend dishes an unpleasant bitter flavor. If you can’t find blanched nuts, you can toast the hazelnuts in an oven preheated to 325ºF (160ºC) for several minutes, then wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub them together until the skins come off.
