Turn Applesauce Into a Savory, Spicy Delight With These Unexpected Ingredients

I love applesauce now but I didn’t always. It wasn’t a part of my childhood in Nigeria, and it wasn’t until my early twenties (while studying geology in the UK) that I first had applesauce—that first experience was with jarred Bramley applesauce paired with roast pork for Christmas dinner. Later, when I moved to the Netherlands for work, I discovered that applemoes (applesauce) is a table essential that most Dutch people develop a love for at a young age. It’s served with everything—pancakes, boiled and fried potatoes, sausages, and even chicken, and no children’s menu at a restaurant is complete without it. 

I was determined not only to learn to enjoy applesauce but also how to make it. My conversion to the ranks of applesauce fans stemmed from my three young children who encountered it often when we lived in the Netherlands, particularly my son who went to a Dutch kinderopvang (kindergarten). At birthday parties, Pannenkoekenhuizen (pancake houses) and restaurants, school trips to orchards, and weekend activities, my world of apples and possibilities expanded—I tried applesauce with mayo and fries, pancakes, meats, and more. Back in my kitchen I explored new recipes with apples for cakes and bakes, toddies, tarts, curds, and—you guessed it—sauce. 

The resulting applesauce that I’ve grown to love and make at home is a thick, brown, speckled sauce, full of apple flavor. It celebrates my love of sweet, sour, and spicy notes combined in one bite. It’s balanced, comforting, and decidedly savory enough to pair with a variety of meals but it can also be enjoyed all on its own as a snack. I particularly like it served with cheese and roast pork. Here are a few tips to make my ideal version of applesauce at home.

The Best Apples for Applesauce

In theory, applesauce can be made with any type of apple. They’re just chopped and cooked down to mush, so how much does the apple variety really matter? But this assumption is wrong. To me, selecting a variety of apple that is both sweet and tart is important for applesauce that can be paired with a variety of spices. My preferred apples for this applesauce recipe are Cripps Pink apples, also sold as Pink Lady apples. A popular winter apple, this variety is my favorite for eating out-of-hand and for cooking—they have crisp, firm yet juicy flesh and when cooked down into applesauce, a refreshing sweet-tart flavor that pairs well with the warming spices and aromatics . 

Hit a Wide Range of Flavor Notes with Warm Spices and Savory Aromatics

While the Dutch applesauce I had grown to love was simple, with no seasonings except for an occasional sprinkle of cinnamon, I prefer to add a variety of warm spices and aromatics to my applesauce to create an unexpected savory and complex flavor. The apples are enhanced with warming spices such as cinnamon, coriander seeds, ginger, and chiles; aromatics like red onions (use shallots if you like) and garlic; and acid from apple cider vinegar and fresh lemon juice. Angostura bitters add a hint of bitterness and complexity, echoing some of the warm and spicy flavors of cinnamon and cloves.

This recipe calls for toasted mustard seeds, which lend some spice to the mix. When cracked and mixed with liquid, as in this recipe, mustard seeds become pungent. If you don’t like the classic funky aroma (think kala namak, a.k.a. black salt), leave them whole. If you decide to crack them in a mortar and pestle, know that this is an art—one I have mustared 🙂 over the years! Place your nondominant hand over the top of the mortar, leaving a slot between your thumb and forefinger for the pestle;this will secure the mortar in place. Then grind, applying pressure in a circular motion to ensure all of the small seeds are cracked in the process. 

Mash the Applesauce Any Way You Choose

Cripps pink apples hold together well when fully cooked so you won’t be able to tell when the apples are done just by looking at the cooked mixture. The best way to check to see whether the apples are fully tender is to press a few apple pieces against the side of the pot with a spoon or spatula; when fully cooked, the apples will turn mushy and fall apart easily. At this point they are ready to mash. For a chunkier applesauce like I prefer, use a potato masher or the back or a wooden spoon to break the apple pieces into a chunky applesauce. Or, if you prefer applesauce with a silkier texture, transfer the apple mixture to a food processor or blend with an immersion blender until smooth. Just make sure to remove the cinnamon stick before blending.

What I especially enjoy about this recipe is that you can adjust the seasonings to suit your preferences and still end up with delicious applesauce. Serve with cheese or meats, bake it into savory tarts and pies, or enjoy it all on its own, just like I do.

In a large Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed pot, heat 2 tablespoons butter until melted, then add cinnamon stick and coriander seeds, and toast, stirring constantly, until just fragrant, about 1 minute. Add onion, jalapeño, garlic, ginger, and salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion just softens, about 2 minutes. Add sugar, stir, and continue to cook, uncovered, until sugar is dissolved, about 30 seconds.

Remove pot from heat and let cool slightly for 2 minutes. Stir in the apple cider, apple cider vinegar, Angostura bitters, if using, and mustard seeds. Return the pot to medium-high heat, and bring to a boil. Once boiling, stir in apples, then lower and adjust heat as needed to maintain a simmer. Cover pot and simmer until apples are tender and liquid has thickened enough that the base of the pot is dryish when you pull a spoon across the bottom, 30 to 35 minutes. (Test the apples texture by pressing apple pieces against the side of the pot with a spoon or spatula; when fully cooked, the apples will turn mushy and fall apart easily.)

Taste applesauce and adjust the flavor to taste by adding brown sugar for more sweetness; vinegar for more acidity; and/or jalapeño for more heat, if needed. If adding ingredients to taste, continue to cook for 1 additional minute after the additions, then remove from heat. Discard the cinnamon stick.

Depending on your preference for consistency, mash the applesauce with a potato masher, blend with an immersion blender, or purée part (or all) in small batches in a blender or food processor. 

Return mashed or puréed applesauce to the pot, cover, and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat, stirring frequently until heated through and the flavors meld, about 10 minutes.

Remove from heat, stir in lemon juice and remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold. 

Special Equipment

Kitchen scale, potato masher, immersion blender, or food processor

Notes

If you can’t find Cripps Pink, you can substitute Cortland, Honeycrisp, Fuji, Jazz, Gala, Braeburn, or Jonagold apples and add one or two Granny Smiths for tartness. 

You can use a serrano chile or a Thai green chile in place of the jalapeño, varying the amount to suit your taste. When mincing the chile, you can leave the seeds and ribs in if you like your applesauce spicy, or remove them to temper the heat. I recommend using gloves when handling chiles.

Variations

Sometimes, I fold in pickled red onion slices and diced pickled red or green jalapeños after it is cooked for color, flavor, and textural contrast.

Make-Ahead and Storage

Once cooled to room temperature, refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week, or freeze for up to 1 year. To use from frozen, thaw overnight in the fridge. Serve cold or at room temperature, or transfer to a saucepan and gently reheat over low heat.