Jamaican Escovitch Fish

While escovitch fish is recognized as a classic breakfast dish in Jamaica, it is actually eaten all day long—for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or as a tasty cocktail party snack. While the traditional preparation is made with smaller, whole fish, like snapper, almost any fish can be treated in the same manner. The preparation is simple: The fish is first dusted in flour and fried, then the fish is covered in a brine-like sauce or pickle called escovitch. The pickle is made of cane vinegar, Scotch bonnet pepper, pimento (the Jamaican term for allspice berries), onion, chayote, and carrot. The preparation’s origins are tied to Spanish influences on the island, in this case the Spanish pickled fish dish known as escabeche. The final result is a deeply satisfying savory fried fish with a tart and aromatic pickle poured over top.

Most of our memories of escovitch fish are centered around the Easter holidays and our maternal grandfather, Gampi. On Good Friday in Jamaica, as in many countries in the world, there is a strong tradition of consuming only fish. On this day, escovitch whole fish is extremely popular. Gampi loved escovitch fish so much that he made this Friday fish a weekly tradition in his home. As per Gampi’s request, every Friday, our grandmother, Ma Ma, would make escovitch fish. She would prepare it during the day and leave it out at room temperature on the stovetop, awaiting Gampi’s return home. Our grandfather relished Friday afternoons, which signaled for him the end of a hard work week and an opportunity to unwind. While he nursed his after-work rum and water, my grandmother would prepare his early supper of escovitch fish and hardo bread spread with Anchor butter. For Gampi, this meal that centered around escovitch fish was the joyous experience that got him in a festive and happy mood for a weekend ahead with family and friends.

The best part of this Friday tradition and meal for Gampi was always the fish head. The fish head is the most cherished part of the fish for most red-blooded Jamaicans, and is usually saved for last. As young girls, we never quite got over seeing him suck out the eyes of the fish. Whenever we refused to eat ours, because we found them too “icky,” he was quite happy to take the extra fish heads off our hands.

While our memories of this recipe are tied to a traditional “old time” preparation for escovitch, where it was always served at room temperature, the recipe has since evolved. What is typically called escovitch fish on modern restaurant menus is served hot. With our recipe here, we lean into the modern interpretation of the recipe; fried hot fish that is covered with the tart and aromatic escovitch pickle just before serving, while still offering the option to serve at room temperature, as we remember with MaMa’s preparation for Gampi. Whether served hot or room temperature, this escovitch fish is sure to be enjoyed.

For the Fried Fish: Wash fish well and rub all over with cut surface of lime halves, including inside cavity if using whole fish. Pat dry. Using a sharp knife, score the skin side of the fish by cutting a series of diagonal slashes through the skin. Rub garlic all over, then season lightly with salt and pepper, including inside the fish cavity if using whole fish.

Spread flour in a wide, shallow dish. Dredge fish lightly by dipping both sides into flour and then shaking off excess.

In a large cast iron skillet or stainless-steel sautè pan, heat 1/2 inch oil over medium heat until melted and shimmering. Gently add fish, skin side down, and fry until golden brown on first side, 3 to 4 minutes.

Carefully flip fish and cook until second side is golden brown and flesh is opaque and flaky, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted fish spatula, carefully lift fish from oil and transfer to paper towel-lined plate to drain. 

For the Escovitch Sauce: In a 2-quart saucepan, bring vinegar, 1 cup (237ml) water, sugar, and salt  to a boil over medium heat. Add chayote, carrots, onions, Scotch bonnet, and allspice berries, then return to simmer and cook for 3 minutes. Remove from heat. 

Transfer fried fish to a rimmed heatproof platter or serving dish. Pour hot escovitch sauce over fried fish. Serve hot or let cool to room temperature before serving. 

Special Equipment

Large cast iron skillet or stainless-steel sautè pan

Notes

Chayote is a type of squash that is native to Mexico, but popular in Jamaican cuisine. The fruit is a member of the gourd family and it looks like a large pear, with a more wrinkly bottom. Look for a chayote squash that is even in color, firm, free of blemishes, and on the smaller side. 

Nowadays, Escovitch fish is often served with fried bammy, a local cassava flatbread inherited from our Taino heritage.

Make-Ahead and Storage

The escovitch pickle can be stored for up to 7 days in the fridge.