I’ll admit, I don’t spend a ton of time on TikTok, but I do know that there’s a seemingly infinite amount of food and cooking videos to scroll through. Even though I attempt to limit social media use, it seems I can’t escape the algorithm, and one recipe trend that has stuck around for the last couple of years is the crinkle pie—also sometimes known as crinkle cake—and its predecessor, ruffled milk cake. But unlike many questionable social media trends, this is one I actually love, in both its sweet and savory incarnations.
The video that started the viral crinkle trend a couple years ago is attributed to TikTok creator @RamenaSaidWow. Her recipe and subsequent copycat recipes (both sweet and savory versions) cleverly fold sheets of store-bought phyllo dough together like an accordion, then douse them with butter, sugar syrup (for the sweet versions), and a simple custard. It’s an easy to prepare sweet or savory pie that can be customized in myriad ways. But this concept of crinkled phyllo drenched in a custard and baked is nothing new. You can trace the roots of this dish to other phyllo-focused baked recipes found throughout the Mediterranean and Balkan regions, such as the Greek dessert galaktoboureko (ruffled milk pie) and savory vegetable-focused phyllo dishes like Greek spanikopita and hortapita and Armenian borek; there’s also sweet souffra and savory gibanica. All feature phyllo dough that’s scrunched up, layered or pressed into a pan, and covered in a creamy custard and/or filled with vegetables before baking.
For our take on the crinkle pie, we chose to go the savory route and asked our test kitchen colleague Nicole Hopper to create a version of the dish that’s ideal for fall. Through rounds of testing, Hopper perfected a recipe for a satisfying crinkle pie inspired by the flavors found in many of the savory Mediterranean phyllo dishes. Her version features hearty fall and winter vegetables such as butternut squash, shallots, and kale seasoned with garlic, thyme, and aleppo pepper, then covered with a savory custard. The bottom and edges of the pie get deeply browned and crisp, the top is lightly golden, and the inner layers remain soft and custardy; it’s creamy and crisp all in one bite.
Hopper admits that this recipe definitely took a couple tries to nail, with a few lessons along the way: Overpacking it with raw vegetables led to a soggy pie, while cramming too much phyllo into the dish also had a similarly soggy result. She also found that it’s important to season the custard well to ensure that the pie is not bland.
To solve these issues, she focused first on the phyllo sheets. She found that par-baking the arranged scrunched phyllo sheets in the pan before layering in the other ingredients ensured the phyllo remains crisp. And sautéeing the aromatics and the kale not only develops a robust flavor, but cooking the mixture drives off excess moisture, ensuring a creamy, not soupy pie. The sautéed kale and shallot mixture along with thin raw butternut squash slices and crumbled feta are all lovingly tucked between the pleated phyllo.
Pre-cooking the squash before layering it into the pan proved to be unnecessary in testing, plus we wanted it to retain a bit of texture to contract the creamy custard once baked. The custard is bolstered with garlic and herb Gournay cheese (such as Boursin) and lemon zest to guarantee an incredibly rich flavor. Once baked, a final drizzle of honey not only adds a glossy sheen, but echoes the sweetness of the squash.
The end result is an incredibly delicious Mediterranean-inspired savory vegetable pie. I have to grudgingly admit, this social media trend is a good idea.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F(175℃). Using a pastry brush, brush a 9- x 13-inch baking pan with melted butter; set aside remaining unused melted butter.
Unroll phyllo sheets. Stack 2 sheets together and using your fingers, scrunch up in an accordion-like fashion. No need to be super precise and it’s OK if the sheets tear or crack; you just want to aim for the pleats to be about 1-inch wide. Arrange in prepared baking pan, with peaks standing and facing up. Repeat with remaining phyllo sheets and layer into pan until pan is completely filled with the pleated phyllo. Bake until top is lightly golden and crisp, about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 6 minutes. Add garlic, thyme, aleppo pepper, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add kale and water and cook, stirring often, until kale is wilted and tender and water evaporated, about 5 minutes. Set mixture aside to cool slightly until ready to use.
Once phyllo is crisp and golden, remove pan from oven. Arrange and tuck sliced butternut squash in between the folds and pleats of the par-baked phyllo. Sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and drizzle and brush evenly with remaining reserved melted butter. Return to oven and bake until squash begins to soften, about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk milk, eggs, Gournay cheese, lemon zest, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon black pepper until smooth; set aside.
Remove pan from oven. Sprinkle reserved shallot and kale mixture and crumbled feta over the squash and phyllo. Use your fingertips to gently push the vegetables and feta in between the layers. Pour the milk mixture evenly over top. Return to oven and bake until squash is tender, custard is set, and pie is browned around the edges and golden on top, 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes.
Drizzle with honey and garnish with additional thyme leaves and lemon zest. Slice and serve hot or at room temperature.
Special Equipment
9- x 13-inch baking pan, pastry brush, large skillet
Make-Ahead and Storage
The entire baked pie or any leftovers can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a 325℉ (160℃) oven, covered with foil, until warmed through, or let sit on counter until it reaches room temperature before serving.