Kookoos are a popular and large class of Persian egg-centric dishes, the most famous of which is the herb-packed variety kookoo-sabzi that I’m sharing my recipe for here. While it might be tempting to say that kookoos are the Persian version of well known Western egg-centric dishes such as souffle, omelette, frittata, and quiche, these terms do not adequately describe the nature of Persian kookoos.
Unlike souffles, kookoos do not fall. Unlike quiches, kookoos do not have a crust. Unlike omelettes, kookoos are not folded or rolled and are much thicker than the typical omelette. The mix-ins of kookoos are chopped into much smaller pieces than those of typical frittatas and some kookoo mix-ins are even mashed. Therefore, the best way to refer to this class of Persian egg-centric dishes is simply what Persians and Iranians call it: kookoo.
There is a wide variety of kookoos in the Persian cookery landscape: They can be made with different members of the allium family (onions, garlic, chives, leeks), different vegetables (eggplant, zucchini, celery, green beans, fava beans, beets, spinach), different starchy root vegetables (potatoes, sweet potatoes, yams), and even fresh unripe green almonds.
The word sabzi means green herbs, and a kookoo-sabzi is packed with fresh, green herbs like cilantro, parsley, and dill. They’re finely minced along with aromatic alliums such a Persian leaks, chives, or scallion greens. While most kookoos are vegetarian, there are some meat-based kookoos where finely minced lamb, beef, poultry, or seafood is incorporated, along with one or more vegetables.
Whatever the variety, the kookoo ingredients are thoroughly mixed with whisked eggs, well seasoned, and cooked on the stovetop until the exterior is lightly browned on both sides and the egg mixture is firm. A finished kookoo is typically an inch- to an inch and a half–thick disc that’s sliced and served in wedges. Versatile and diverse, kookoos can be enjoyed hot or cold, as a main course, side dish, snack, or even as a sandwich. They’re perfect for eating at home or taking along to potlucks and picnics.
The Etymology, History, and Tradition of Kookoos
The earliest known references to kookoos in the Persian culinary landscape are in the two oldest surviving Persian cookbooks from the 16th century. The fact that kookoos are referred to in both of these cookbooks is an indication that they were well known in the area that is now Iran during that time frame.
Several food historians and culinary writers, including Alan Davidson, Editor of The Oxford Companion to Food, and Heather Arndt Anderson, author of Breakfast: A History, tell us that the earliest omelettes are thought to have been cooked in the ancient Persian and Arab worlds. Kookoos can then be considered as an evolution of those early omelettes. The concept of these early omelettes appears to have moved throughout the Middle East and North Africa before reaching Europe, morphing into such culinary delights as the Spanish tortilla and Italian frittata.
The closest comparison to kookoo in other food cultures is likely the tortilla de patatas (or tortilla Española), a famous Spanish egg and potato dish. But although the cooking technique (including the flipping part) and the thickness of these two egg dishes are similar, the rest of it (particularly the size and variety of mix-ins) is very different. It should also be noted that in contemporary Middle Eastern cookery—particularly in Egypt—there is a similar class of dishes known as eggah.
Kookoo-sabzis originated from Azari communities in northwestern Iran, not surprising as kookoo-sabzi is also popular in the country of Azerbaijan—the northeastern neighbor of Iran. These days, kookoo-sabzi is popular across the entire country of Iran as well as in the Iranian diaspora around the world.
One reason for kookoo-sabzi’s fame and popularity is that it is one of the key elements of the most important meal during Nowruz, the Persian New Year celebrations. In this meal, herb-flavored steamed rice–called sabzi-polow–is accompanied by wedges of kookoo-sabzi and pan-fried fish. In addition, kookoo-sabzi is an important part of Christmas and Easter meals for Iranian Armenians.
Key Ingredients in an Herb Kookoo
Herbs: Herbs play a critical role in Persian cookery as they are used across all types of savory dishes. Kookoo-sabzi uses several different herbs. When it comes to the mixture of fresh herbs, kookoo-sabzi is very forgiving. As long as you have a total of about 15 ounces (400g) of mixed chopped fresh parsley, cilantro, dill, and leek, per eight eggs, you will have a successful kookoo-sabzi.
Persian Leek: Persian leek (Allium ampeloprasum ssp. persicum) is a cultivated allium native to the Middle East and Iran. It has a mild oniony flavor and is eaten both raw and cooked in a wide range of Persian dishes. It is called tareh in Persian. It resembles the top half of common leek in appearance (folded flat linear leaf sheaths) but is much thinner, smaller, and more delicate.
Persian leek is often incorrectly labeled garlic chives or spring onions but is different from those plants. Persian leeks are used, along with other herbs, in traditional Persian soups, meat braises, meat dumplings, and stuffed vegetables. Fresh Persian leeks are cheap and are often available year-round in specialty Persian, Afghani, and Middle Eastern markets. If you do not have access to these specialty markets, you can easily substitute an equal amount by weight of the green parts of scallions, chives, or even the middle third section of regular common leeks.
While diced dried Persian leeks are commonly available in Persian, Afghani, and Middle Eastern markets, their flavor suffers greatly when dried. If fresh leeks are unavailable, opt for the fresh substitutes mentioned in the recipe rather than dried Persian leeks. Chopped fresh Persian leeks are very freezer friendly. When they are available, I always buy a large quantity, chop them finely, and freeze them in one-cup portions in freezer bags.
Fenugreek: Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) is an annual plant. Its leaves consist of three obovate leaflets (teardrop-shaped with stems attached to the tapering end). Its leaves (fresh or dried) have been used as an herb and its seeds as a spice since ancient times.
Fresh fenugreek leaves are slightly bitter, but once cooked, they take on a subtle bittersweet flavor and a uniquely pleasing aroma that fills the kitchen–often lingering for days. It is the herb that defines not only this famous Persian kookoo but also the most famous Persian braised meat dish, ghormeh-sabzi.
Fresh fenugreek becomes available for a short period between late spring and midsummer. It is very difficult to find fresh fenugreek in North America or Europe. Some specialty Persian, Afghani, or Indian markets may carry it during its short growing season. However, practically speaking, all Persian home cooks use dried crushed fenugreek leaves for this dish, and so should you.
It is a powerful dried herb, so a small amount goes a long way. Dried crushed fenugreek leaves are readily available in the spice section of many well stocked supermarkets, and in all specialty Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, and Indian markets, as well as through a variety of online spice markets such as Penzeys, Kalustyan’s, and The Spice House. Please note that this dish uses fenugreek leaves, not fenugreek seed, which is a popular spice in Indian cookery.
Dried Barberry: Barberries (berberis) are the tiny, bright red fruit of a spiny shrub. Rich in vitamin C and pectin, they have a pleasant tangy flavor. In Persian cookery, barberries are used widely as a souring agent in rice dishes, braises, and egg-centric dishes, where they provide brilliant dots of vivid red as well as bursts of intense flavor. Unlike crushed dried fenugreek leaves, dried barberries are carried by very few neighborhood grocery stores in the West. However, they are readily available in all specialty Middle Eastern and Mediterranean markets, or for online purchase.
If you’re unfamiliar with barberries, I recommend you get to know them. They’re showing up more and more in popular culinary writings and recipes. I am certain that barberries will soon become the next za’atar, the next sumac, or the next pomegranate molasses.
Both crushed dried fenugreek leaves and dried barberries are also available through online stores that specialize in Persian ingredients, such as Kalamala Persian Grocery, Sadaf, Persian Basket, and Tavazo—and of course on Amazon.com.
Methods for Flipping the Kookoo
Generally speaking, all kookoos are made by beating many eggs, adding a good amount of finely chopped raw or cooked mix-ins, and pan-frying the mixture in a sauté pan or skillet until firm on the bottom and at the edges, but still a bit runny in the center and top. The partially cooked kookoo is then flipped (in one piece or in manageable segments) to cook the other side. Since both sides of the kookoo are in contact with the hot surface of the pan, a delicious, very thin, golden skin is formed on both sides of the kookoo.
The only semi-tricky part of making kookoos is flipping the partially cooked egg mixture. For those less experienced, flipping the large round kookoo in one fluid swoop may seem like a daunting task. To help with this, I’ve given options for flipping it, and regardless of which flipping method I use to ensure the kookoo flips easily, I always dust off my rarely used nonstick skillet for making kookoo so it releases easily from the pan.
The first method is based on the oldest detailed recipe for kookoo from a Persian cookbook published around 1520 describing this task: It directs the cook to cut the partially cooked kookoo into segments (typically four quarters) and flip each individually. This is the most common (as well as easiest and safest) flipping method among Persian home cooks and is consistent with my own childhood memories watching family members making kookoos.
The second method, which is a bit tricky and more risky than the first, is to flip the entire partially cooked kookoo in one piece. No, I don’t mean to flip it into the air with a single flick of the wrist and then try to catch it back in the skillet. It is too heavy, and the middle of it is too runny for such TV show action. You’d end up with splattered egg mess across your kitchen floor.
To flip the kookoo in one piece, once the eggs are partially cooked but the middle is still a soft and runny, work over the sink (in case anything is dropped) and hold the skillet with one hand, and turn a large plate (or some other heatproof vessel such a baking sheet or heatproof cutting board) on top of the skillet. Put a dish towel on top of the plate, place your hand on top of the dishtowel, and, in one quick motion, invert the skillet so the kookoo falls into the plate. Return the now empty skillet back to the stovetop, add another tablespoon of butter or oil to the skillet, and carefully slide the kookoo from the plate back into the skillet to continue the cooking process.
If you are lucky enough to have two skillets approximately the same size, you can also flip the kookoo into the second skillet: When it is time to flip the kookoo, evenly spread the one tablespoon of butter or oil in the second skillet. Take the skillet that has the partially cooked kookoo over to a sink, turn over the second skillet on top of it. Put a dish towel on top of the second skillet, place your hand on top of the dishtowel, and, in one quick motion, invert the first skillet causing the kookoo to fall into the second skillet. Continue the cooking process with the partially cooked kookoo in the second skillet.
Once you’ve gotten your kookoo flipped, the hard work is done, and all that’s left after it finishes cooking is to slice, serve, and enjoy!
How to Serve Kookoo-Sabzi
Since most often kookoo-sabzi (and all other types of Persian kookoo) is made in a round frying pan, it is typically served in wedges. Wedges of kookoo-sabzi (and all other types of Persian Kookoos) can be served as a starter or a side dish. It can also constitute the main component of a meal when accompanied with, for example, a bowl of Persian yogurt with cucumber dish, mast-o-khiar, a plate of fresh herbs, and some flat bread.
Kookoos are also popular as an accompaniment for a rice-based meal. In fact, the oldest kookoo-sabzi recipe from the 16th century suggests it be served along with traditional Persian steamed rice, chelow.
Persians adore kookoo-sabzi sandwiches, traditionally built with Persian bolki bread, which can easily be substituted with any readily available roll you like. For the best experience, try a crusty Vietnamese banh mi roll. Hero rolls, ciabatta, baguettes, or batons also work well. To assemble your perfect kookoo-sabzi sandwich: Slit your chosen bread roll open. Slather the inside with butter and your preferred spicy mustard. Fill the sandwich with a few pieces of cold kookoo-sabzi. Add thinly sliced tomatoes and dill pickle strips. For an extra textural dimension, add a few walnut halves, or spread a teaspoon of dried barberries on the inside of the bread for extra tanginess.
Wash all fresh herbs and leeks or chives well. Spread over a kitchen towel and gently roll to remove excess water. Alternatively, use a salad spinner to achieve the same results.
Harvest the leaves and most tender stems from the bundles of parsley and coriander. (If you wish, save the scraps and longer tough stems for other purposes such as making broth.) Chop all fresh herbs (including chives or leeks) as finely as you can. Feel free to use a food processor to chop the herbs. (see notes.)
In a large mixing bowl, beat eggs and salt until frothy. Add the chopped fresh herbs and stir to combine.
Add crushed dried fenugreek, barberries, if using, flour, baking powder, and ground black pepper. Stir until thoroughly combined.
In a 10-inch nonstick skillet, Add 3 tablespoons butter (or ghee or oil) and heat over medium heat until butter is melted or ghee/oil is shimmering. Once melted, pour the egg mixture into the skillet and using a spatula, spread into an even layer, and cook, gently swirling and sliding the skillet back and forth for the first 3 minutes of cooking.
Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and continue cooking until edges of the kookoo are set and the center third is still slightly runny, 10 to 15 minutes.
For Flipping in Sections: If you decide to flip the kookoo in pieces, use a stiff spatula to cut the partially cooked kookoo into quarters. Using a flexible (silicone) spatula to temporarily remove one of the segments, add the remaining tablespoon of butter or oil to the skillet. Return the first segment back into the skillet, uncooked side down. Continue flipping the rest of the segments and cook, uncovered, until the eggs are completely set and dark golden brown on the bottom, about 5 minutes.
For Flipping the Entire Kookoo: If you decide to flip the kookoo in one piece, once the kookoo is partially set but still runny in the center, carefully place a large heatproof plate or baking sheet or cutting board on top of the skillet. Using a dish towel for gripping, quickly invert both the skillet and plate together, flipping the kookoo onto the plate. Return the now-empty skillet to the stovetop and melt 1 tablespoon butter over medium-low heat until melted (if using ghee or oil, until shimmering). Using a silicone spatula, gently slide the kookoo back into the skillet and gently press the edges of the kookoo into the skillet for even cooking. Continue to cook, uncovered, until eggs are completely set and the bottom is dark golden brown, about 5 minutes.
11. Slice and serve.
Variations
Add Walnuts: The most popular variation of Kookoo-Sabzi involves the addition of about a half cup of crushed walnuts to the batter. It adds a bit of crunch to the kookoo as well as making it a heartier meal. This variation is so popular that many Persian home cooks consider this variation as their primary recipe for kookoo-sabzi.
Bake in the Oven: An alternative to cooking on the stovetop is to cook the kookoo in the oven. It eliminates the need to flip the kookoo, but you will miss out on both sides of the kookoo being pan-fried and the texture will not be as uniform as most of the egg will migrate towards the bottom part of the kookoo–hence, it is not my preferred method. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line an approximately 2-inch deep 8×8 inch square or 8-inch round ovenproof baking dish with parchment paper. Evenly spread the entire 4 tablespoons of butter or oil on the bottom of the lined pan, pour the contents of the mixing bowl (from Step 7 above), spread evenly with a spatula, and bake until set, about 35 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes. Flip the pan onto a cooling rack or a baking sheet for the baked kookoo to fall out of the pan. Peel off the parchment paper. Flip it again onto another cooling rack or baking sheet. Let cool for another 10 minutes before cutting into squares or rectangles.
A better way to cook the kookoo in an oven is to use a silicone muffin pan to make cupcake-shaped mini kookoos perfect for parties. Fill each cavity to the brim and bake for 20 minutes at 350°F. To prevent baked mini kookoos from getting soggy, take them out of the muffin pan as soon as you can safely handle them. This recipe will have enough batter for about 18 mini kookoos. You can garnish the mini kookoos with barberries.
Vegan/Gluten-Free: Kookoo-Sabzi is a vegetarian dish to begin with. Using commercially available vegan egg substitutes (such as Just Egg brand) and using your favorite vegetable oil (instead of butter or ghee) results in an acceptable vegan Kookoo-Sabzi. The easiest way to make a gluten-free version of kookoo-sabzi is to use your favorite measure-for-measure gluten-free flour (such as King Arthur brand) as the replacement for the 1 tablespoon of all-purpose flour that is called for in the basic recipe. Alternatively, simply eliminate the flour, which will result in a slightly denser kookoo but otherwise the same flavor. With regards to the baking powder that is asked for in the basic recipe, these days most baking powders are gluten-free, as its typical ingredients are an acid, baking soda, and a gluten-free starch like potato or corn.
Special Equipment
10-inch nonstick skillet
Notes
For the herbs, you will need to buy approximately 9 ounces (250g) cilantro, 7 ounces (200g) parsley, and 7 ounces (200g) fresh dill.
Never chop the chives or leeks in the food processor by themselves–otherwise they will turn into a green watery mess. Either combine them with the parsley, coriander, and dill to be chopped in the food processor together or simply chop them separately the good old-fashioned way with a sharp knife on a cutting board.
The two sides of the pan-fried kookoo will typically have slightly different colors. The side that gets pan fried first is more brownish whereas the side that gets pan fried second is more greenish.
If you are not able to use fresh cilantro, parsley, dill, or leeks, there are two alternatives. The best option is to use commercial bags of frozen chopped herbs that might be available in your local supermarkets. Some Persian and Middle Eastern markets may even have pre-mixed frozen combinations of kookoo herbs. The other option is to use dried versions of each of the herbs. If using frozen herbs, substitute 1-to-1 by weight. If using dry herbs substitute 1-to-3 dried to fresh by weight as dry herbs are much more potent.
Make-Ahead and Storage
You can prepare your herbs (including chopping them) a day or two ahead of time, as long as you store them in the refrigerator in an airtight container that has been lined with a sheet or two of damp paper towels. I do not recommend making the batter ahead of time as it will become overly watery and the beaten eggs will not cling to the vegetables, resulting in a kookoo that has a layer of egg and a layer of herbs, which is not what you want.
Leftover kookoo-sabzi is a tasty snack and a popular picnic food, as it is very transport friendly, and is an excellent primary ingredient for a sandwich. Leftovers can be stored for about a week in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
The best way to warm up leftover kookoo-sabzi is to use your toaster oven or your standard kitchen oven (particularly if your oven is on for some other reason). Put the kookoo segments on an oven-safe plate (or simply on a double-folded sheet of aluminum foil) at 300°F for about 10 minutes, or until you see tiny oil bubbles forming on the top and/or where they touch your warming vessel.
The quickest way to warm kookoo up is to zap them in your microwave oven for 2 minutes—but they will be a bit soggy, so opt for the oven if you have time.
Kookoo-sabzi is also very freezer friendly. Wedges of cooked kookoo-sabzi stored in tightly sealed freezer bags can be stored in the freezer for 3 to 6 months. After defrosting them on the counter for about 30 minutes, you can warm them up as explained above or eat them at room temperature.